Venus Rising

Food for SoulIssue: Scorpio 07

Mmmmm…Pancakes!

Fall ushers in a whole new genre of seasonal foods and recipes that include squash, onions, beets, potatoes, roast meats, apples, pears, cider, oatmeal, and pies. Fall also slows us down a bit. We tend to stay home more in the evenings, and linger a little longer in the mornings, especially weekend mornings. Farmers markets are closing soon, so why not stay home, brew the coffee, and make breakfast? For Americans, a breakfast to linger over almost always includes pancakes. Pancakes are easy to make, and provide so much warmth and satisfaction that they seem the perfect welcoming feast to a new Saturday and a new season.

Pancakes are one of the oldest forms of bread, and because of this they have hundreds of variations and forms that are served anytime, day or night. In all likelihood, they began as flat, dry disks. As time went on, leavening agents, fat, and flavor were added. American pancakes are made of flour, milk, and eggs, butter and baking powder. They are perfect for soaking up butter and maple syrup and for melting whipped cream or ice cream. They are, however, almost always made into sweet dishes and served for breakfast.

In other parts of the world, pancakes have another life that is not part of any breakfast. Most notably, in France the pancake is called a crêpe and there are crêperies everywhere serving their thin lacy creations for lunch or dinner. In Amsterdam, there are similar establishments, but much like in the States, they are called pancake houses. Don’t for a minute, however, think that these houses are like your local IHOP; they are not. First of all, they don’t usually open until 11 a.m. or 12 p.m. In addition, their menus have far more savory preparations than sweet. They are technically called Flemish crêpes and are quite similar to the French crêpe. A pancake in an Amsterdam pancake house is thinner and larger than the American pancake and thicker and larger than a French crêpe. Generally, they encompass the entire plate, and the plates are not small. They are griddle or skillet fried to a toasty brown and served soft and hot, with a slightly crisp edge. They are not cakey, and retain softness without being rubbery. They aren’t too wet or too dry, and they sometimes show off small bubbles like little pillows here and there. These pancakes are warm and inviting, and after one, there is little doubt that you will have another, if only to experience the two modes…savory as well as sweet.